Thoughts From The Garden

Native Herbs & Wild crafted plants

Their use in skincare & aromatherapy

(adapted from Deb's herbal lecture for Cornell 2007 )

2. Infusions in Liquids & Oils

Herbs should be collected from the garden early in the morning after the dew is dry but before the noon sun robs the plants volatile essence by using

sharp shears or knife. You should only cut 1/3 down the plant as not to stress it and keep it healthy. Cut above a branch node so the plant will begin a new shoot. Bundle herbs loosely and not over stacked to inhibit mold Tie the stems at the end with a rubber band as plant stems will shrink while drying and can begin to fall out of the tie . Hang in a dry, dark area away from sunlight for 2-3 weeks for most herbs. We hang ours in the overhead rafters of our shop where we have a ceiling fan. you can also lay out flat on porous racks like window screens or soap drying racks.

Test for dryness by removing a few leaves. If the herbs easily crumble they are ready to strip from stems and store in airtight jars or ziplocks away from sunlight and heat. Always label accordingly as many herbs appear the same after harvesting and drying!

Dried Herb Usage:

In soap, the dried herbs can be added in at trace as well as making into a tea and used as part of the water phase before adding in your lye.

* a note on this method is that most herbal teas will tend to turn the soap a tannish but one can compensate for this by adding colorant & the dried herbs themselves. I like to cover the top of my soap batch with herbs or petals to further enhance the artisan appearance as well as create a nice exfoliation quality. I usually add in 1-2 tablespoons of dried herb toad 5 lb batch.

I love using my rosemary herbal soap in my kitchen as I am a lover of rosemary. I add rosemary essential oil at trace and I use green oxide to color the soap batch. I go a step further by adding in at trace about 2 teaspoons of crushed rosemary herb. It retains a wonderful aroma and is the epitomy of herbal soap. Rosemary has a deodorizing quality as well as possessing some antibacterial traits.

You can make an herbal tea and use it as your water phase for lotions and creams to incorporate the herbal benefits of herbs such as mint, lavender, calendula, etc. but remember to add a preservative to help inhibit the growth of mold . Other body products that we make from dried herbs are: bath bags, facial masks, facial steams, eye poltices, bath salts blends, and skin scrubs, catnip mice and potpourri. I have sprinkled petals and herbs over my soy wax candles but always place a warning label stating to remove then before burning-makes a nice presentation!

Methods of infusion:

1.fresh or dried herbs in oil

2.dried or fresh herbs infused in liquids

We like to use the solar method to infuse our fresh herbs during the summer months. However, herbs such as comfrey leaf will require some wilting as it is so extremely succulent that it tends to sour your oil before it is finished infusing. Cloudiness and a distinct sour odor indicates this unfortunate occurrence. For this herb as used in our comfrey salve I do like to use a crock pot if fresh wilted herb is used. Never allow your direct crock pot or double boiler heated oil to reach 160 as it destroys the herbs healing properties. You can also use dried herbs in direct heat methods but your infusions will not be as strong. Sterilize large glass jars the same way you would prepare them for food canning (do not forget your lids) and dry thoroughly, place herbs loosely into jar about 1/2 full and add the oil of choice such as olive ( my preferred oil) leaving an inch or so from top. We add a teaspoon or more of grain alcohol to inhibit mold growth in case any herbs float up and out of the surface. With sunny hot days the oil should be infused completely in 3-4 weeks. You can also make it a stronger infusion by adding more freshly picked herb after a few days making sure the new addition is pushed under the oil's surface. I am always amazed at the magic created made when I infuse St.John'swort flowering heads & buds as the tiny yellow flowers will turn your oil a rich, ruby red. This infusion, to me, takes on the scent of mincemeat pie filling.

When you are ready to strain off your oils, remove lids and place a layer of cheesecloth or fine netting over the head of your jar, secure tightly with a large rubber band and slowly pour off oil (pore off quicker if still warm from the sun) into another clean, sterile jar. Cap tightly , label and store away from light and heat. Use within 3-6 months. The infused oils can be used as the oil portion of your soapmaking to enhance the herbs natural properties such as calendula oil for baby soap-soothing, healing, softening etc. Or lavender oil for a nighty nite soap. * the scent of the herb does not always impart scent into the infused oil but the properties will remain. this is where your essential oils or fragrances are important.

You can infuse herbs either dried or fresh into liquids such as distilled water, witch hazel or alcohols.

To infuse in distilled water, steep herbs as you would a tea at a 1/2 & 1/2 ratio , cover to help retain essential oils for at least 5-10 minutes. Strain and use as water portion of soapmaking, lotions, creams, toners etc. To infuse herbs dried or fresh in liquids such as alcohol or witch hazel, let set at 1/2 & 1/2 ratio in sterile jar out of light for at least 1-2 weeks or more. We make a toner using lavender buds infused witch hazel, added distilled water, a bit of glycerin and some essential oil of lavender. It is very mild and non-stripping as well as freshening during the day while gardening. If you add a bit of aloe & a touch of peppermint, it makes a hum dinger of a after sun spray for sun burn or a hot-flash cooler! I burned my Irish skin in Maui and it never blistered then our companions proceeded to use it and some had looked like lobsters and they too never blistered. It made it's way down the hotel corridor of rooms until had non left! I also have been handed down a recipe through the ages of a nice anti-sting infusion that can be left on the shelf for ages. It is made using cider vinegar, healing herbs of peppermint, sage, plantain, St.John'swort,& lavender. You can keep adding in fresh herbs and strain off after a week or so to make an infusion even stronger. My neighbor's little boys are always coming to the screen door to be dabbed with my "Bee-Bite" tonic . It works it's magic and a cookie also helps a bit when done!

Some of our most Frequently used Herbs

Uses: dry in soaps and sachets used fresh to manufacture essential oils, infusions and distillates

used for soaps, lotions, salves, soy wax candles, laundry products, air fresheners, diffusers.

Can be used neat on skin for minor burns rashes & abrasions.

Aromatherapy action: calming, soothing, balancing.

Characteristics: anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral, cooling, deodorizing, stimulating, increases circulation, mental stimulant

Effective for headaches, congestion, fever, fatigue, migraine, muscle soreness, disinfecting

uses: bath bags, toners, deodorants, air fresheners, disinfectant spray, facial or sinus steam, foot products,

headache formulas, lip balms. * needs dilution for skin application-not straight

Characteristics: uplifting, strong lemon scent, mild analgesic, stress relief

Benefits: good for entire body, inside and out, used infused in oil for healing cold sores

Uses: bath bags, teas, tonics, help for fever blisters, hair rinses, salves creams, sachets, potpourri

Chamomile

Characteristics: analgesic, antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, sedative, soothing to skin

Uses: in salt blends, bath bags, infused for baby oil and salve, facial and nail care products, eye compresses,

herbal pillows, in room sprays for relaxation, good for burns, eczema, reduces inflammation

Comfrey

aka: knitbone, bruisewort, healing herb

name means to "grow together" used to heal wounds since at least 1st century BC

parts used: leaves or dried root

Characteristics: anti-inflammatory (*contains the chemical allentoin which speeds cell regeneration thus needs to be used on cleaned minor abrasions only) used infused in oil for skin salve, in liquids as skin toner, in bath bags and facial masks. Allentoin is extracted and sold for manufacture of medicinal products (ex: Proactive line of facial products)

Benefits: helps with deep and rapid healing of skin and tissue underneath.

Wild Crafting

Know what you are picking! Be mindful of nature's bounty...pick one plant for each three you see.

St. John'swort

Characteristics: antiviral, calming, pain relieving Contains the chemical hypericin which is a natural analgesic. Used over 2,000 years in history to treat warrior's wounds.

Uses: applied topically in salves or infused oils.

Benefits: used to relieve pain and inflammation. for sore muscles and fever blisters.

Jewelweed

aka:"touch-me-nots"

called touch-me-nots because the ripe seed pods will burst when touched-a game enjoyed by most country kids!

Characteristics: succulent roadside plant acts as an antidote for poison ivy and oak. Likes dark wet areas so it grows in the same areas poison ivy thrives as well-use caution when picking! Plants come with either yellow(most common) or orange flowers. The orange variety is the strongest for use. Pick tops as older plants are very woody. After you are able to recognize plants easily, you should pick the youngest ones early in the season when they are tender and easiest to macerate . Blossoms are not necessary to use in your concoctions..

Uses: Entire plant can be pulverized in blender with a little glycerin or/and aloe added. Can be used directly on skin, added into soaps and lotions, infused in water as spray. Freeze maceration in ice cube trays for future use. Can be strained after maceration and juice added into water or aloe juice to spray topically. * do not use in alcohol as it will spread the oil from the poison ivy over the skin.

Benefits: helps to neutralize the oily chemical found in poison ivy but should be used as soon as one can after exposure. Adding peppermint essential oil into products made with jewelweed cools and helps relieve itching and pain. I use both the macerated and strained juice from the plant added into soap at trace along with peppermint essential oil.

on my soapbox...

We are artists of body products. Visually, herbs create a lovely, artisan bar of soap or body product that is rich and inviting. They also provide aromatherapy and medicinal benefits the herbs and their essential oils produce. There are endless books and internet education on herbs and essential oils available. It is one of the most interesting and rewarding endeavors to pursue. They provide a "whole body" experience.

Mind ~ Body ~ Spirit

enjoy...

The Country Artist

A note on Salve making

After infusing your oil it is very easy to formulate salve products.

for a scoopable salve :To heated infused oil use a ratio of 1 part melted beeswax to 5 parts infused heated oil(around 140 degrees but never over 160) . You may have to let your beeswax cool down to same temp as infused oil as it needs a higher temp to melt.

Wisk together and add in any extras like essential oils, melted menthol crystals etc.

For a thicker concoction such as a muscle rub that will be poured into a deodorant container you want a more dense formulation so a 1: 3 ratio of wax to oil should be used much like a lotion bar. I use a candle pot as the lip is perfect to help you pour your product. I also use my crock pot on low to melt my wax in bigger batches but a double boiler method will do also.

When I first began this endeavor I sterilized a coffee can and bent one side of the top with pliers into a lip-necessity is the mother of invention , indeed.

While pouring , if your salve becomes too cold & thick you can always set your pour pot into a pan of boiled water to re-melt your mix to continue pouring.

Happy salve making! -Deb

any questions can be sent to the contact e-mail on this website-always ready to give a fellow artisan help!